Kim Shui SS26 Takes Us Beyond the Sky’s Limit
The artisanal collection was shown at the One World Observatory, 1,300 feet above the ground.
Image Courtesy of Moment Dept.
Kim Shui has always been known to incorporate her Chinese culture in her garments through materials, colors, and graphics. However, many people are unaware that she grew up in Rome. Nevertheless, when you pay attention to the particular details in her designs, you’ll notice European elements in terms of tailoring, fit, and silhouettes. For her Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Shui tapped Allegory of Inclination, a 17th-century painting by Artemisia Gentileschi on the ceiling of the Galleria in the Casa Buonarroti, in Florence.
The Allegory of Inclination was once censored and recently uncovered as its original work in 2023. This inspired Shui to convey the message of what society chooses to conceal and unveil. In this case, Shui refers to the clothes, the human body, autonomy, and empowerment. Throughout the collection, Shui juxtaposes the stillness of a painting through the constant movement of both the models and the clothes.
Image Courtesy of Moment Dept.
Shui continues her signature silhouettes of layers, drapery, glossy, and matte finishes on outerwear, skirts, dresses, trousers, corsets, and accessories. What’s different this season is her play on colors. Throughout the collection, the palette shifts from pastel light greens, blues, and yellows to warm tones of browns and metallics. Like the Allegory of Inclination, Shui creates layers for each look to give wearers the option to conceal or show: sheer shoulder panels, dresses, tights and socks, and scarves.
Many of the pieces are reminiscent of details you would spot in a 17th-century painting, such as fringes, laces, silk, floral patterns, bows, exaggerated body-contouring clothes and shoulders, and wood grain patterns on pants, blouses, outerwear, and more. While these may spark you to think of an old art piece, Shui introduces modern paired hats by Binata Milinery and shoes by Woods by Jordyn.
Image Courtesy of Moment Dept.
As Shui comes up on her tenth year designing, she continues to empower both the brand and its wearers through reclamation and being unapologetically fierce. Wearing Kim Shui is the embodiment of defiance, conspicuousness, and a type of standing out that can only be felt through the powerful aura people acquire when they wear it. As Shui says: “The KS woman is not just a muse, but the author of her own unveiling.” SS26 is as timeless as the Allegory of Inclination and the story behind it.
