Alyson Eastman SS27: Alchemy

As she approaches 40, Eastman said the collection demonstrates a newfound sense of authenticity.

Photo Courtesy of MODEWORLD and Alyson Eastman

Alyson Eastman has always been rooted in timeless silhouettes constructed with sustainable materials. Silk bias-cut midi skirts. Classic vintage inspired cotton white tees. Leather moto jackets, made with food-source hides in Florence, Italy.

But in her SS27 collection Alchemy, Eastman pushed seasonless dressing to its extreme—that is to say, she designed a collection rooted solely in herself. “I was trying to design for what people wanted for so long,” said the designer, who launched her self-titled brand in 2016. “I’m designing for me now.”

Eastman’s mindset shift came in the years after the pandemic, as she embraced a bicoastal lifestyle between fast-paced New York City and her equestrian roots in Portland, Oregon. “Why am I fighting so hard to be in New York City, like that’s the only way to be a designer or have a luxury product?” Eastman said of her newfound approach to design.

Alchemy, then, more than any collection prior, represents the designer's own personal becoming. Western-inspired fringe is sprinkled throughout the collection, including on the brand’s classic moto jacket (the hero product she started her brand with) and asymmetrically stitched leather mini skirts. Eastman worked with marbling artist Brittani Locke to create a print, featured on a 100% silk three-piece set, inspired by the bright lavender and sage of a white-hot flame.

Photo Courtesy of MODEWORLD and Alyson Eastman

Perhaps the most successful are the collection’s transitional, multi-use pieces. Standouts include leather leg warmers meant to be worn under a sleeveless, lace-trimmed silk wrap dress, a reversible black leather jacket lined with moss green fur, and an updated version of the brand’s Amalfi dress, which can be worn as a bodysuit or a two-piece set. Another three-piece set features a cropped jacket, vest, and shorts fashioned in a weatherproof tweed.

As the collection is still ultimately rooted in wearable basics, like barrel-legged leather pants and cotton crop tops with slightly flared arms, Eastman seems to be giving her customers permission to show up however they please, even if whatever that is changes shape over the course of a single day. Quite literally, the leather leg warmers and a corresponding chaps-inspired utility belt (sewn onto the brand’s airy and elegant Capri skirt) are a reworked sample from a black pant the brand carried back in the day.

As she approaches 40, Eastman said the collection demonstrates a newfound sense of authenticity—one rooted in quality rather than the need to follow trends. “When you’re buying a piece of clothing for hundreds or thousands of dollars, it’s not just the brand; it’s who made it and the thought behind it,” she said. “When people start caring about quality rather than the brand names, fashion will go in the right direction.”

Karla Marie Sanford

Karla Marie is a writer and journalist based between Los Angeles and New York City. She has previously reported for the New York Times, Washington Post, and Los Angeles Times across a range of beats, from breaking news to food, but finds her true love in the visually forward world of fashion and lifestyle magazines.

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