DIGITAL ISSUE 03: Edwin Reyes’ ‘Sankofa’ Takes Us to Puerto Rico

Edwin Reyes graces the third edition of 1202 MAGAZINE’s digital cover series.

Photography by Mary Lazo

There are over half a million Puerto Ricans in New York City, and designer Edwin Reyes proves that both the people and the culture are here to stay. In his newest collection, Sankofa, Reyes pays homage to the history and authenticity that connect the city and the island—featuring lightweight materials, tropical colorways, elegant movement like drapery and ballooning, and island-inspired patterns.

Reyes taps a more sophisticated side of his craft, making his pieces more multi-functional and versatile. Flowy capri shorts are so movable that they almost resemble a skirt to salsa dance in, a pinstripe skirt that seamlessly transforms into pleated pants, and cotton cropped tees with subtle, yet impactful details of Puerto Rican culture and architecture.

This past April, Reyes presented Sankofa at Chino Grande, a Puerto Rican-Asian fusion restaurant in Brooklyn. Here, the sound of coquís and bongos filled the room as models strutted through the space as we dined and drank Buchanan’s Whisky cocktails. In partnership with Buchanan’s, the spirit helped celebrate and elevate Caribbean and Latino identity, bringing both the night and the collection together.

Reyes, who has designed for notable artists like Chuwi, sat down with 1202 MAGAZINE as our third digital cover star to discuss the process behind Sankofa, how he’s preserving the strong Puerto Rico-New York City connection, and how he’s evolved into a more sophisticated, elevated brand identity.

Photography by Mary Lazo

Can you walk me through the concept of Sankofa and what it represents?

When I was developing this collection, I was focused on connecting New York and Puerto Rico because they're part of my diaspora and my experiences. I thought a lot about being a Puerto Rican creative in New York. I thought about my first memories of going to Puerto Rico, and what stuck out the most were the gates throughout the island.

I wanted to take a more artistic approach. There’s a popular Puerto Rican artist based in Chicago who depicts her perspective on the Berlin gates. I also have a close friend, Lucia, who shares her perspective on the New York landscape. I wanted to connect those two elements to create Sankofa. I wanted to create with more intention in the process as well.

How did the Edwin Reyes brand come to life, and what is the meaning of Sankofa?

I focus on three pillars: sustainability, heritage, and culture from a fashion standpoint. I include embroidery embrodiery, screen printing, and sequin work. I also work with artisans from The Bronx. Those are my versions of real artists. I wanted to emphasize the Sankofa meaning because it’s inspired by all of its motifs and elements. The literal meaning is specific to the future. I wanted to look at the path of other designers and artisans to incorporate into this collection.

What did the process of creating Sankofa look like?

It was a lot. I added a lot of new elements to the rotary, and it was a lot of mental work. There were many hours of filming, but luckily, I had my team of interns, which made it more fun. I created the collection with so much intention because I wanted to make it contemporary—I didn’t want to put patterns all over the place—it had to be nice and clean.

Photography by Mary Lazo

How did you choose the specific materials, patterns, and textures?

I set myself the challenge of avoiding warm tones. You’ll see a lot of cool tones with touches of burnt orange and burgundy. It reminded me of the rust on iron gates. I wanted to use cool colors to represent the sea and the sky.

How long did it take you to complete Sankofa?

We started at the end of November. We were pretty quick. We finished in mid-February. Suddenly, everything shifted with the sponsorship—and life overall—but I’m so happy that it did. To me, Fashion Week is so oversaturated, and that week in early April gave me some time to myself. I’m a little spiritual. We were supposed to do a presentation during Fashion Week. The collection was done for a month, and we shot the lookbook. Throughout March, we did a lot of admin work and preparation.

You recently presented Sankofa at Chino Grande in collaboration with Buchanan’s Whisky. How did that collaboration come to be, and why did you choose to present it there?

Dylan Golden (Head Chef of Chino Grande) and I were doing a photoshoot for his documentary, and I briefly mentioned that I needed a space to present the collection. I also wanted to host a dinner with the presentation. Things changed over time, because the presentation was originally supposed to be a dance party. There was going to be a moment where the pieces came out on the dancers during the press dinner. Dylan said, ‘How about we host it at Chino Grande?’ Then we stuck with the idea of doing a mini trunk show during the dinner.

Buchanan’s often supports Latino and Caribbean artists. What was collaborating with them like?

When I pitched to them, I didn’t even realize how much they support the Latino and Caribbean communities. They were really down with any idea I had. I loved their support.

Are there any other themes or motifs you want to experiment with after Sankofa?

I would love to continue working with silk printing and block printing. I also have a beautiful embroidered jacket that I want to save for a later collection.

Photography by Mary Lazo

What’s been the feedback so far on Sankofa?

I think people are noticing the motifs. I loved educating people about how certain elements were brought to New York City and to the island. To piggyback on the partnership with Chino Grande, I loved the cross-cultural moment of the iron work being prominent everywhere from Spain to Africa.

What are you looking forward to now that Sankofa is live?

For the brand, I’m focusing more on visibility and creating high-quality content. I want to introduce ER to the world. Every brand has its niche, and ER is very romantic, sexy, and confident.

How would you say you’re representing The Bronx, Puerto Rico, and yourself all in one?

The brand has the attitude of The Bronx, the island’s beautiful, sensual vibe, and the confidence of New York.